Page:Encyclopædia Britannica, Ninth Edition, v. 3.djvu/187

Rh ordinary lowest extreme of January, to 82 J, the ordinary, or 86 J, the highest known extreme of July, near the level of the sea. Between these two points (both taken in the shade) there is from month to month a pretty regular gradation of increase or decrease, amounting to somewhat less than four degrees (Geographical Journal, vol. xv.) lu winter the prevailing winds are from the north-west, west, and south ; while in summer the most frequent are the north, north-east, and east. The weather is often extremely stormy, and the winds from the west and south-west render che navigation of the coasts very dangerous.

The general character of the flora is decidedly European, no fswer than 400 out of the 478 species generally con sidered as indigenous belonging likewise to that continent, while only four are found in America, and forty are peculiar to the archipelago. Vegetation in most of the islands is remarkably rich, especially in grasses, mosses, and ferns, heath, juniper, and a variety of shrubs. Of tall-growing trees there was, till the present century, an almost total lack ; but through the exertions of Jose de Canto and others the Bordeaux pine, the European poplar, the African palm-tree, the Australian eucalyptus, the chestnut, the tulip-tree, the elm, the oak, and many other?, have been successfully introduced into one or more of lao islands. The orange, the apricot, the banana, the lemvi, the citron, the Japanese medlar, and the pomegranate, u:e the common fruits, and various other varieties are more or less cultivated. At one time much attention was given to the growing of the sugar cane, but it has now for the most part been abandoned. The culture of woad introduced in the IGth century also belongs to the past. A kind of fern (Dicksonia, culcita), called by the natives cabellinho, and common throughout the archi pelago, furnishes a silky material for the stuffing of mat tresses, which forms an article of export to Brazil and Portugal.

The mammalia of the Azores are limited to the rabbit, weasel, ferret, rat (brown and black), mouse, and bat, in addition to domestic animals. Among the fish caught off the coast may be mentioned the mullet, the tunny, the bonito. The numbers of birds are so remarkable that in St Michael s, where a reward is given for the destruction of the blackbird, the bullfinch, the redbreast, the chaffinch, and the canary, the sum paid annually represents a death- list of 420,000. The game includes the woodcock, red par tridge (introduced in the IGth century), quail, and snipe. St Michael s, the largest and most populous of the islands, liael s. has an area of 224 square miles, and 105,404 inhabitants. The east end rises from a bluff cliff, from 1200 to 1400 feet high, to a lofty inland peak, whence a central range, varying in height from 2000 to 2500 feet, runs to the westward, terminating in the Serra da Agoa de Pao, 3060 feet above the sea. The sea-coast gradually declines in approaching the last point, where it is not more than abcut 100 feet high. The middle part of the island is lower, and more undulating; its western extremity being marked by the conspicuous Serra Gorda, 1574 feet above the sea; its shores on both sides are low, broken, and rocky. The aspect of the western portion of the island is that of a vast truncated cone, irregularly cut off at an elevation of about 800 feet, and falling on the N., S., and W. sides to a perpendicular coast of betweeen 300 and 800 feet high. In the higher parts an undergrowth of shrubs gives the mountains a rich and wooded appearance. Like all volcanic countries, the face of the island is uneven and irregular, being deeply excavated by numerous ravines, and roughened by streams of semi-vitrified and scoriaceous lava, that resist all atmo spheric influences and repel vegetation. Heavy rains falling on the mountains afford a constant supply of water to four lakes at the bottom of extinct craters, and a number of minor reservoirs, and through them to small streams running rapidly down on all sides into the sea (Geographi cal Journal, vol. xv.) Hot springs abound in many parts of the island, and from almost every crevice vapour is seen issuing. But the most remarkable phenomena are the Caldeiras or boiling fountains, which rise chiefly from a valley called the Furnas, near the western extremity of the island. The water ascends in columns to the height of about 12 feet, after which it dissolves in clouds of vapour. The ground in the immediate vicinity is entirely covered with native sulphur, like hoar frost. At a small distance is the Muddy Crater, the vertex of which, 45 feet in diameter, is on a level with the plain. Its contents are in a state of continual and violent ebullition, accompanied with a sound resembling that of a tempestuous ocean. Yet they never rise above its level, unless occasionally to throw to a small distance a spray of the consistence of melted lead. The Furnas abounds also in hot springs, some of them of a very high temperature. There is almost always, however, a cold spring near to the hot one. These springs have for a considerable period been greatly resorted to in cases of palsy, rheumatism, scrofula, and similar maladies, and bath-rooms and various conveniences for visitors have been erected. The plains are fertile, producing wheat, barley, and In dian corn ; whilst vines and oranges grow luxuriantly on the sides of the mountains. The plants are made to spring even from the interstices of the volcanic rocks, which are sometimes blasted to receive them. Raised in this manner, these fruits are said to be of superior quality ; but the expense of such a mode of cultivation necessarily restricts it. The western part of the island yields hemp, which might be raised to a considerable extent. The exports consist of wine, fruit, and provisions, the most important trade being in oranges. Foreign intercourse was at one time confined rigorously to Lisbon ; but the inhabitants now trade directly with England, America, and other countries. The exports during 1872 at the port of St Michael s were of the value of 85,279, and the imports amounted to 91,943. The principal town in the island is Ponta Delgada, which contains 15,520 inhabitants. It is built with toler able regularity, the streets being straight and broad. The religious edifices are numerous and elegant. The harbour receives only small vessels; those of larger size must anchor in an open roadstead, which cannot be occupied during the prevalence of southerly gales. A breakwater and harbour of refuge have been in process of construction for a number of years ; and a lighthouse is being built at the north-east end of the island. The other towns are Villa Franca, Bibeira Grande, Alagoa, Agoa de Pao, &c.

St Mary is a small island immediately adjacent to St St Mary Michael s, through the medium of which its trade is con ducted, as it has no good harbours of its own. It has an area of 36 square miles, and produces wheat in abundance, of which a considerable quantity is exported. Various volcanic rocks are the predominant formations, but beds of limestone also occur, giving rise to numerous stalactite grottoes all over the island. Population from 7000 to 8000.

Terceira (so called as being the third in order of dis- Terceira. covery) is smaller than St Michael s, but being placed in a more central position with respect to the other islands, has been chosen as the seat of government. The port of Angra, protected by Mt. Brazil, is also superior to any of those in St Michael s. This island does not exhibit nearly the same extensive traces of volcanic action ; and the summits of its mountains are generally level. It abounds in grain and cattle ; but the wines are inferior, and fruits are raised merely, for internal consumption. The number of inhabitants is estimated at 50,000.