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, in two days after the rest of the salt, saltpetre and the spices. Rub for half an hour, and the longer the better. Lay the hams in the vessel, keep them carefully covered, turn and baste them with the brine every day for some time.

A beef ham must be tied up with packthread; the knuckles of a mutton one filled with salt. The former takes six weeks to cure; the latter three.

Hams are spiced by using aromatic and sweet herbs.

Cut off the roots, soak them with a weak pickle for a day or two, and afterwards salt them with common salt. Scrape and dry the tongues, rub them with salt and saltpetre, and the next day rub again with sugar and salt. Keep them within the pickle for a fortnight.

Black-legged fowls are the most juicy and best for roasting. Pullets are in prime before they begin to lay; hen fowls are best when full of eggs. Their freshness is denoted when plucked, by the rump being close and dark. Old hens have rough combs, skin, and legs. The spurs of a young cock are short, and comb bright red. Capons should be chosen by the fat at the shoulders, large rump, and pale comb.

Ducks should be chosen by the same rules. Young ducks are improved in flavour by being scalded.

Cod are best in January and February, and poorest in June and July. When fresh the gills