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44 a musical ear and a vibrant pipe. But what can be made out of a service in the Latin tongue?

The cathedral had been built in the Italian style from 1614 to 1628, when it was consecrated by Archbishop Paris von Lodron. The old Gothic cathedral had been burnt in 1598. These Italian churches are only endurable when seen from a distance, where their domes or cupolas produce a finer effect than towers and spires. Internally they are hateful. The archbishop who consecrated the cathedral also fortified the city, and built the sumptuous archiepiscopal palace in the town, now gone in flames as had the old cathedral. It was odd to see Dean and Provost in mitre and bearing crosier. This was one of the papal grants, accorded to other churches as well in order to lower the prestige of the bishops, whom the Holy Father sought to convert into mere flunkies of the Vatican.

About two miles and a half from Salzburg is the summer palace and park of Hellbron. This was constructed and laid out by Mark Sittich, Count of Hohenems, Archbishop of Salzburg, a noble of Swiss origin who was archbishop for seven years only till 1619. The waterworks which form the great attraction were an addition by Archbishop Paris of Lodron. To give an account of these would occupy too much space. I can mention but a few. There is in the park a large building with folding doors before it which, when opened, discloses a scene, a market square with little figures displayed, engaged in every sort of trade, shoemakers, tinkers, tailors, together with a man showing a dancing bear, and women riding goats, a man trundling a woman in a wheelbarrow, a harlequin; and beside, haranguing senators to whom no one listens, all making a terrible clatter, whilst an organ plays a solemn tune in an adjoining church. All this is worked by water.

Under the palace are chambers like grottoes, hung with stalactites. In one, from all sides is heard the cooing of doves, the twittering of sparrows, the hooting of owls, and the call of the cuckoo. No birds are, however, to be seen; all the notes are produced by water; turn a tap and the birds are reduced to silence. In the entrance chamber is a strange-looking mask with staring eyes and a large mouth. Water gurgles from between the half-closed teeth, and then the mouth opens, and from it issues