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84 subdued to harmonize with their monotonous swinging pace, and chimed softly and plaintively with the tinkling of camel bells—thus:

Sometimes these wanderers pass several days without taking substantial food; but, to make up for their abstinence, they eat voraciously and "make merry" when they have the opportunity. It was dark in the bridle-path between the Yâfa Gardens, but the large and many glowing watch-fires within the inclosures showed that the abundance of ripe fruit was well guarded.

We entered the gate of the town, where crowds of people were lounging. The broadest bazar was bright with lamps and lanterns; but we soon merged one by one into dark, narrow, crooked streets of stairs, and I was directed to follow the kawass closely and carefully. His large, full, white Turkish trowsers seemed to move before me by some mysterious power, without support or suspension; for the black horse which he rode was quite invisible in the darkness, and his red fez and embroidered jacket could not be seen, only now and then two shining eyes turned round to see if I were safe. I followed my ghostlike leader cautiously till we reached the British Consulate down by the seaside, where we were welcomed by our friends, Dr. and Mrs. Kayat; and Mr. Finn, who had only arrived an hour earlier, soon came to meet us. He had slept at Ramleh on the previous night, and was surprised we had made the journey from Jerusalem so easily in one day. Fire-works from a ship at anchor attracted us to the oriel window which overlooks the sea, and we sat for a long time watching the waves as they rolled toward us, crested with white