Page:Domestic Life in Palestine.pdf/417

410 I was surprised at the severity of the cold in Jerusalem. Twice I saw the city shrouded with snow, but the sun soon melted it away, leaving only white, fleecy wreaths on the northern sides of the domes and cupolas. There were a great many new buildings in course of erection outside the city. Large plots of land had been purchased by Russia, France, and Austria, and foreign schools, hospices, and other institutions were being established.

Our friend, Kamil Pasha, was no longer there. Surreya Pasha had succeeded him. He was a man of an entirely different character. He had not so much sympathy with the Europeans. He was a strict Moslem, and kept the mosque and all the holy places religiously closed against unbelievers, and fostered a spirit of fanaticism. It was acknowledged, however, that he was in many respects a clever ruler, and an energetic and vigilant disciplinarian. It was said that he never took bribes, but caused the taxes to be regularly enforced. They had been neglected by some of his predecessors, on the principle that it is easier to take bribes than to collect taxes.

To facilitate the taxation of the citizens of Jerusalem, he had caused all the houses to be numbered, and large Arabic numerals now appeared on the doors. There was no division into streets or quarters, as in European cities, but the figures, commencing with units, rose up to hundreds, till every dwelling, however obscure, had its especial mark. Then a careful record was made of the names of the owners