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Rh and a colored silk handkerchief for a vail, and thus form a good idea of the general outdoor appearance of the women in the chief towns of Palestine. It must be remembered, however, that not a vestige of crinoline is to be seen, and full, soft trowsers, with sometimes a skirt over them, a jacket, and a shirt, is all that is worn under the izzar or sheet. The three shrouded ladies led me out, and a kawass, not unnecessarily, went before to clear the way; for in the narrow streets of stairs, with their tortuous turnings and broken steps, it is well to have notice of the coming of a frisky horse, a heavily-laden mule, or a ponderous camel.

At the arched entrances of some of the large houses I noticed fragments of granite columns, marble bases, carved capitals and cornices, which had probably been transported from the ruins of Ascalon. They are used as stepping stones for mounting and dismounting.

We entered a low doorway, and found ourselves in a court-yard, where a group of negresses were busy washing. They took me by surprise by seizing my hands, kissing them, and pressing them to their ebony foreheads. I soon learned to be on my guard, and to draw my hand away firmly but courteously, in time to elude the embrace; for I observed that this is the way the act of submission is expected to be received. The refusal to accept the kiss shows that you do not wish the individual who proffers it to humble himself before you.

However, under certain circumstances, the case is different; for instance, if a person asks forgiveness of you, or protection, or any favor, your refusal to allow him to kiss your hand or your feet is a sign that his request is not granted.

Priests always exact this homage, and it is very readily paid to them; but laymen, who invariably allow it, generally gain the sobriquet of "Khouri"—priest.