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258 animated group. I had never in the East seen any men so tall, well-proportioned, and handsome as the two Jerrars. Their large, loose, white and brown cloaks hung in graceful folds, and their red and yellow silk shawl head-dresses shaded bright, clear countenances, with classically-regular, yet very expressive features. My brother said to me in English, "If you have an opportunity, by all means take the likeness of our host, Ibrahîm. He is the most celebrated man in this district, both as regards courage, daring, and energy; and his family for many generations have been renowned for strength, vigor, and manly beauty. But," he added, "do not let him or any of the others see you sketching him, for he is quite as superstitious as he is handsome."

The men were all so earnestly engaged in smoking, talking, or listening, that, by writing and drawing by turns, I succeeded in securing the portrait without exciting observation.

Ibrahîm Jerrar took me to his harem. It was in the most central and secure part of the castle, and consisted of three rooms, opening into a square court. He introduced me to his three wives, and gave them directions to welcome me as a sister, and then left me with them, while he conducted my brother over the town. The women greeted me and stared at me with unconcealed wonder. They were more simple, frank, and innocent-looking than any Arab women I had seen. They were young and rather stout and ruddy, and cheerful and bright as happy children. They belonged to the peasant class. Their long, open dresses, or pelisses, were of soft crimson and white striped silk. Large silver coins encircled their faces, and a row of small gold coins crossed their foreheads, like a fillet, to bind down their thick black hair, which was cut short in front and combed straight down, meeting their arched eyebrows, quite hiding their foreheads. Their eyes were large and clear, their eyelids were edged with kohl, and their chins and chests were dotted with tattooed stars.