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244 maidens, with the words, "May it give you pleasure!" This ceremonious politeness is strictly observed among the Moslems, even between the nearest relations. The prescribed forms of greeting in habitual use appear to me to have the effect of keeping comparative peace and harmony in the harems.

A very beautiful narghilé was prepared especially for me. It was at least half a yard high. The glass vase or bottle was clear as crystal, and well cut. It was filled with water, in which rose-leaves were floating. At the top of the long-necked vaše was a well-chased solid silver bowl, holding the burning charcoal and Persian tumbac. The pliable snake-like tube or hose connected with it was covered with red velvet and bound with gold wire. It was about four yards long. The mouthpiece was of amber, set with rubies and turquoise. The smoke passed through the water, bubbling and disturbing the red-rose leaves, and then traveled up the long tube. Thus the fragrant fumes of the tumbac were cooled and purified before they reached my lips.

I observed that there was a little whispering and consultation going on among the women, and then Helweh came and sat by me and said, "Are you married ?" I said, "No," and they answered, "Why then have you left your father and mother? are they not kind to you?" I told them how good they were, and how my mother taught me to speak and read and write my own language, and the languages of other people. I tried to make them understand how English parents educate their children.

Werdeh said, "It is much better to marry and to stay at home than to travel about the country. The dangers are great now in this time of war, and the women should stay at home."

Sit Sâra said, "Werdeh has spoken wisely. Why do you not marry?"

I answered, "Ya sitta, there are no men of my country here. How can I marry?"

Sâra then said, "You speak our language like a stranger,