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Rh windows on three sides, commanding views of the valley and the town-gate. The deep, low window-seats were cushioned and carpeted. Here no ladies ever appear; I was told afterward that I was the only woman who had ever crossed its threshold. We found that the Governor himself was absent, but we were very courteously received by his relations; and they said, kissing our hands, "This house is your house, and we are at your service." They expressed great surprise to see us on a journey while the country was so disturbed. They said that every day there were skirmishes in the neighborhood, and at least one hundred and fifty people had been killed within a few days. Flocks were stolen, and camels were constantly waylaid and robbed of their burdens. A battle had been fought on the previous day, near to Arrabeh, and many lives were sacrificed. The sons and nephews of the Governor told us about it. They were engaged in the fight. One boy of about sixteen years of age showed us how he threw himself on the ground and pretended to be dead, and thus escaped a death-blow. He exhibited his spear stained with blood, and his pistols, of which he was very proud. They were of English manufacture.

The younger sons, about ten and eleven years of age, were told to conduct me to the harem. They carefully led me over terraced roofs, through courts, and halls, and passages, till we reached the female quarter. I was taken to a large vaulted room, with whitewashed walls and stone floors, lighted only from the wide-open door; for, as glass casements are not used, the wooden window-shutters were closed to keep out the rain. My young guides, Selim and Saïd, ran before me, and cried out exultingly, "An English girl! an English girl! come! see!" I entered, and in a moment was surrounded by a little crowd of women, dressed in very brilliant costumes. They were of various complexions—from the dark Abyssinian slave-girls in crimson and silver, to the olive and bronze-colored Arabs in violet and gold.