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 CHAPTER I. FROM LONDON TO YÂFA. good-byes and farewell greetings on board the Rhine, at London Bridge, on the night of the 14th of June, 1855, need not be recorded here. At midnight the tide was favorable, the bell rang, the steam was up, lingering friends hurried away, and I found myself alone with my brother. He had been enjoying a few months in England, after having spent more than six years in consular service in Syria, and I had gladly consented to accompany him, on his return to his official duties. We landed at Boulogne the next day, and arrived at Marseilles, in time to embark by the Egyptus, on the morning of the 21st of June. We passed through the Straits of Bonifacio on the 22d, at mid-day; and on Sunday, the 24th, spent a few hours ashore at Malta.

On Thursday morning we landed at Alexandria, and after seeing Said Pasha's Palace, Cleopatra's needle, and Pompey's pillar, went on board the Tage, on the evening of Friday, the 29th. It was crowded with passengers, Greeks, Syrians, Turks, and Jews, who were leaving Alexandria on account of the outbreak of cholera there. The sunset-gun flashed from the fort as the steamer glided out of the harbor.

We remained on deck till a late hour, listening to the animated songs of the Greek sailors, who were celebrating Rh