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194 were springing up vigorously, and over fallow ground garnished with blossoming weeds. Now and then we overtook a land tortoise, leisurely making its way across the country. They are very common in the plains of Palestine. Mohammed told me that Christians of the East eat them, especially in Lent, and the peasants catch and carry them to market-towns in great numbers. I afterward heard this confirmed, but I never saw the dish any where.

When we reached the hill country I could scarcely recognize the valleys and the hill-sides, which I had traversed in October, and again in November. Every thing was changed and beautified by Spring. There was no bare earth to be seen, it was all concealed by vividly-green vegetation. The periwinkle was conspicuous, and in the hollows of the white rocks and between the stones tiny flowers were flourishing. The evergreen oaks were garlanded with wild clematis, and a creeper with lilac bell-like blossoms traveled from tree to tree in graceful festoons. The "pastures on the hills were clothed with flocks, and the valleys were covered with corn." Here we saw some human beings, the first we had met on our way. There was a very old man, with a long staff in his hand, sitting under a tree. He rose up when he saw us coming. He wore over his long shirt a short pelisse made of sheep-skin, and an old shawl head-dress. Some youths came forward as we approached. They were bronzed and weather-beaten. They had nothing on but long coarse cotton shirts, girdled with leather belts. Long clumsy-looking guns were slung over their shoulders. Their heads were hooded in old red and yellow shawls. The herds and flocks upon the hills were in their care. The old man raised his hand to his forehead as we went by, and said, "God direct you." One of the