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DAWN AND THE DONS 118 tume of the men, Dana says, was “a broad brimmed hat, usually of a black or dark brown color, with a gilt or figured band around the crown, and lined under the rim with silk; a short

jacket of silk or figured calico—the European skirted body is never

worn; the shirt

open at the neck; rich waistcoat, if any; pantaloons open at the sides below the knee, laced with gilt, usually of velveteen or broadcloth; or

else short breeches and white stockings. They wear the deerskin shoe, which is of a dark brown color, and being made by the Indians, usually a good deal ornamented. They have no suspenders, but always wear a sash around the waist, which is usually red, and varying in quality with the means of the wearer. Add to this the never failing poncho, or serape, and you have the dress of the Californian. “The women wore gowns of various texture, silks, crepe, calicos, etc., made after the European style, except that the sleeves were short, leaving the arms bare, and that they were loose about the waist, corsets not being worn.

They wore shoes of kid or satin, sashes or belts

of bright colors, and almost always a necklace or ear-