Page:Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje - The Achehnese - tr. Arthur Warren Swete O'Sullivan (1906).djvu/60

 in general came most closely into contact with the influence of the trading centre, whilst ureuéng dusōn and ureuëng Tunòng became practically synonymous; but with this distinction, that families of standing in the Tunòng conformed as far as possible to the manners of the capital, whilst in the more distant of the lowland districts the influence of the Banda Acheh is scarcely traceable.

In dress and deportment to begin with, there is a difference between the true Tunòng folk and those of the lowland districts.

The peculiar Achehnese trousers (silueuë or lueuë Achèh) of prodigious width are characteristic of both, and both alike regard the fullness in the fork of this garment as an indication of Mohammedan dress in contradistinction with the tight forks of the trousers of infidels. Those worn by the lowlanders on the other hand are longer, and the materials most in use differ from those employed in the Tunòng. The loin-cloth (ija pinggang) is similarly in the eyes of both a shibboleth of Islam, as it is only infidels that feel no shame in exhibiting themselves in close-fitting trousers without further covering of the space between navel and knee. But while the Tunòng man lets his loincloth hang down to below the knees with a flap in the centre, with the lowlander it barely extends to just above the knees and its lower edge is aslant.

The lowlanders usually wear bajus or jackets (bajèë), either the bajèë Achèh with long narrow sleeves and a big gold button (dōʾma) in the middle, or the bajèë ᶜèt sapay (short-sleeved baju) the dōʾma of which is at the neck. The highlanders make comparatively little use of this garment and wear in its place simply a kerchief (ija) thrown over the shoulder or fastened round the middle or else laid on the