Page:Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje - The Achehnese - tr. Arthur Warren Swete O'Sullivan (1906).djvu/343

 will have a geundrang or drum to play at the andam festival should they recover and live to be married.

In such cases the geundrang with its indispensable accompaniment of two flutes (srunè) is played in the back verandah during the actual operation of shaving, and afterwards the musicians complete their performance in the front part of the courtyard (leuën). They have a special tune called lagèë meuʾandam for such occasions.

Let us now sketch briefly the toilette in which the bride is dressed after the andam. As upper garment she has a bajèë or jacket richly laced with gold thread, over the sleeves of which sundry kinds of bracelets are tightly fastened. These comprise the puntu and ikay on the upper arm, the sangga near the elbow, a bangle (gleuëng) on either arm, pushed up to near the elbow, round the middle of each fore-arm a sawèʾ, and a puchōʾ on each wrist. All the ten fingers are adorned with two or more rings each. Over the jacket is thrown a long cloth, the ija simplaʾ. It is folded in four and passed round the waist, and the two ends are brought up crosswise over the breast and allowed to hang down behind over the shoulders.

Around the neck there is first suspended a golden chain (ganchéng) to which are attached horizontally one below the other three half moons of gold each set with precious stones and finely wrought at the edges. Above this comes an euntuëʾ or collar, usually composed of golden knots of the same kind as those which are to be found attached to the corners of an Achehnese sirih-bag (bòh chru). In the ears are the great earrings (subang) which give such unbecoming width to the holes in the ears of the Achehnese women.

The silken trousers (silueuë or lueuë) are not as a rule even partially covered with a loin-cloth (ija pinggang). Such a garment is indeed indispensable for the adults of both sexes in Acheh and serves as a token that the wearer is a Mohammedan; but the bride is usually of immature age, and neither propriety nor religion demand so much of children.

On either foot the bride wears a krunchōng or anklet of silver or suasa (an alloy of gold and tin), which is hollow and has tinkling silver bells inside it.

On the forehead rests a patam dhòë (forehead-plate) which curves gracefully down to the cheeks; on the right and left sides of this are fixed golden bosses (anténg) from which little chains furnished with bells hang down to the level of the ears. One or two golden bungòng