Page:Catholic Encyclopedia, volume 15.djvu/447

 VESTMENTS

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VESTMENTS

was completed in this period includes five essential of the Mass, as the pluvial, the liturgical cappa, took elements: definitive separation of the vestments worn its place at the other functions. Another, and new

at the liturgical offices from all non-liturgical cloth ing, and especially from that used in secular life; sepa- ration and definitive settlement of certain articles of dress; introduction of the sacmlcs (lislinclira; employ- ment of the vestments definitely assigned for use at the Divine offices with retention of the ordinary cloth- ing under these vestments; lastly, introduction of a spe- cial blessing for the vest- ments intended for liturgical use. It cannot be decided positively how fax this de- velopment was consum- mated by means of nici^ custom, and how far !• positive ecclesiastical legi-1 tion. However, it may 1 taken as certain that tli growth of a priestly dre.-is did not proceed everywhere at an equal pace, and it is very probable that this de- velopment was complctril earUer and more rapidly in the East than in Western Europe, and that the Orient was the prototype for West- ern Europe, at least with re- gard to certain garments (stole and pallium). It was of much importance fort lie forming of a special priest 1> costume differing from the garments ordinarily worn, that the pcenula (cloak or mantle) and the long tunic, which came into universal use in the third century and were also worn in the offices of the Church, were grail- ually replaced in daily life from about the sixth cen- tury, by the shorter tunic and the more convenient open mantle. The Church did not join in this return to the former fashion, but re- tained the existing costume, which was more suitable to the dignity of the Divine offices; this fact in itself was the beginning of a rubrically distinct priestly dress. As regards the influence of

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vestment is the surplice, which, appearing in the course of the eleventh century, began in steadily in- creasing measure to replace the alb. In the third period, above all, the pontifical dress received its definitive form. This was the natural result of the enormous advance in the secular importance of the hishnjis and of their position in public life, whirh occurred in the Carloviiigian era. Vestments such ;us sandals anil stockings became exclu- sively episcopal ornaments. New pontifical vestments were the gloves, the suc- cinctorium, and the mitre, to which was added among the German bishops the rational, an imitation of the p:illiuin. When Amalarius wrote his treatise, "De ulliriis ecclesiasticis", at the liegiuning of the ninth cen- tury, eleven garments were iiu-iuiled among liturgical vistiuents: amice, alb, cin- Kuluin. maniple, stole, tunic, ilahiiatic, chasuble, sandals, IKiiiiifical stockings, and the jiallium. In the time of Innoient III the liturgical M'stnirnts numbered seven- Inn, till- faiion, that is the ]Ki|i:il anure, not being in- cluded among these. Prot- estants have claimed that the development of the prichtly dress in the third piri.iil wiis due to the for- mulation of the dogma of Transubstantiation. How- ever, this is entirely incor- rect. As early as about 800, therefore, before the discus- sion concerning the Eucha- rist, the liturgical dress was (■om])lete in all its essential l)arts. The introduction of the iiluvial, or cope, and the surplice .arose from the de- sire to be more comfortable; but the de\elopment of the pontifical costume was biised, as has been said, upon the important secular position which the bishops enjoyed from the Carlovingian era.

T, - iU 1 I 1 St. Eugenius of Toledo, by Theotocopuu

Rome upon the development showing Vestments of a Latin Primate in the XVI Centur.v

of a liturgical costume in

other parts of Western Europe, such influence can- which naturally brought about a corresponding

not have been of much importance outside of Italy enrichment of the pontifical dress. The doctrine of

before the eighth century. The case, however, was Transubstantiation exerted no influence upon the

different in the eighth century, and as early as the ninth century Roman custom was authoritative nearly everywhere in the West. The great simplicity of the liturgical dress in the pre-Carlovingian era is very striking. The dignified shape with many folds

development of the liturgical vestments.

In the Greek Rite — the development of the litur- gical dress in the other Oriental Rites caimot be traced in this period — only the pontifical dress was enriched. The new pontifical vestments were: the

that is constantly met in the sculpture and pictures of sakkos, still a patriarchal vestment; the epimani

that era did not in fact require decor.ation, which at that time w.as limited almost exclusively to the clavi, the red ornamental trimming of the dalmatic.

The third period, extending from the ninth to the thirteenth centur>', completed the development of the priestly vestments in A\'estern Europe. It cea.sed to be customar>' for the acolytes to wear the cha,suble, stole, and maniple. The tunide became the cu.s- toinary vestment of the subdeaeims; the chasuble

kien; the epigonation, in so far as this vestment had not already been introduced before the ninth cen- tury; the epigonation first had the form of a handkerchief and w.as called enchiriqn (hand-cloth, handkerchief), it wjus not named epigonation until the twelfth century.

In the fourth period, from the thirteenth centurj' to the present time, the historj- of the liturgical vest- ments is almost entirely the history of their rubrical

was the vestment exclusively worn at the celebration evolution, their adornment with embroiderj- ami or-