Page:Cassells' Carpentry and Joinery.djvu/403

Rh panels obtained. Face up the back sides of the panels; mark equal width between the stiles, and gauge the edges for the distance between the top of bottom rail and the bottom of lock rail. Set a mortice gauge to (Fig. 1222) and run all round. Work down to across endwise with a saw, and with a rebate plane and side fillister with the grain. Rebate out for letting in flush beads across endwise, and prepare and fix these beads up to the dotted lines. Square across at and gauge the corresponding widths down both sides. Cut down from to  with the tenon saw, and remove the waste portions. The corresponding portions with the grain should be ploughed and knocked off with mallet and chisel; afterwards clean off and smooth up with shoulder and smoothing plane. Note that the margin from to  should be slightly bevelled towards ; this permits the bolection moulding to be planted solid in front. Of course, a thinner panel may be preferred to the bead and flush described, with a moulding planted round inside, but that is optional. When the panels are prepared, knock off a stile on one side of framing, put in the panel, and replace the stile.

Completing Front-entrance Door and Frame. — The doors and lights may now be glued, cramped, and wedged up and cleaned off, and the bolection mouldings mitred and planted in. The frame having been fixed, the bottom and top side lights must be fitted to a joint (the bottom rails of the side lights being ploughed for the water bar), but the rebates and edges should be well painted before nailing. The fanlight must be fitted so that it will swing, and it should be hung with two 3½-in. wrought-iron butts on the bottom edge, being kept in position and made to swing by using a patent quadrant fastener. In fitting the door, sufficient play must be allowed for it to open and shut easily, and it should be hung with three 4-in. wrought-iron butt hinges. A 7-in. mortice lock should be fitted, and, to facilitate the letting in of this lock, the end of the lock rail should be bored before the door is put together. To do this, bore the first hole to a depth of about 3 in., fill it up again with an easily fitting piece of round stuff (prepare a piece sufficient to make half a dozen), and cut off long enough to stand up about ⅛ in., to allow grip with pincers; bore the second hole on the circumference of the first. Then withdraw the first core by gripping with pincers, and fill up the second hole; bore the third hole on the circumference of the second, and then remove the second core, and so on. When finished, it will be found that there is comparatively little stuff left to clear out. It is obvious that it would be impossible to bore so much out if temporary cores were not put in; moreover, the bit has a tendency to run into the adjoining hole when the holes are bored too close together. The size of bit to use in this case will be ¾ in. The bottom rail of the door must be rebated for the water bar, also throated. This bar is only inserted in exposed situations, or where there is no portico. It keeps the rain from getting under the door, and should not therefore, from the fear that it may become a stumbling block, be omitted. The linings will be prepared from the drawings, and are tongued together at the top, and fixed securely to wood pads or bricks built in the wall. The plinth blocks being fixed at the bottom, and the architrave moulding mitred at the corners and fixed round, will complete the job.

Double-margin doors are generally used when a door opening is wide in proportion to its height. They are framed as one piece and then hung. The arrangement of the panels varies according to the taste of the architect or the design of the building in which the door is placed. The example shown in Fig. 1224 is a door for an opening 7 ft. 3 in. high and 4 ft. 1 in. wide. The panels have been arranged to be of equal size, while the framing shows an equal margin except in the case of the bottom rail. In one method of construction the middle stile is in two separate pieces, in which case there are really two separate leaves joined to make a single door; or the middle stile can be in one piece, in which case it assumes more of the character of a muntin than of a stile. In Fig. 1225, which represents a horizontal section through the panels of Fig. 1224, the door is shown