Page:Canadian Alpine Journal I, 2.djvu/210

318

A party consisting of L. M. Earle of the English Alpine Club and two ladies, accompanied by the Swiss guides Edouard Feuz Sr., and Gottfried Feuz, started from Lake Louise Chalet late in August or early in September of last year with the intention of making an attempt to ascend the still unconquered South Tower of Mt. Douglas.

The following notes are from a description of the expedition supplied by Mr. Earle:—

The party reached the headwaters of the Red Deer River by way of the Pipestone and Little Pipestone Valleys and camped on the third day at the head of a small valley leading southeast from the main valley and immediately under the North Tower of Mount Douglas on the west side. The peak now rose between the camp and the bed of the long lake directly below it on the east side, here referred to as "Lake Valley."

The North Tower was first ascended, and, though no great difficulty was experienced, much care was required owing to the looseness of the rock. The route selected was not the easiest one and led to some rather awkward scrambling on the first buttress: time 5½ hours from camp to summit; barometer altitude 10,900 feet. The altitude of the North Tower, according to the Topographical Survey, is 11,015 feet. The summit commands an exceedingly fine view. There was no indication of a previous ascent.

An attempt was next made to ascend the South Tower. After viewing the contour of the South Peak through strong glasses, both from the North Peak and