Page:Canadian Alpine Journal I, 2.djvu/21

Rh former mode of progression of no further service, the only course left was to retreat to the shoulder. Here a council was held and the easterly ledge again traversed in the hope that some possible chance had been overlooked, but the hope proved to be a vain one. At about one o'clock, therefore, it was decided to abandon the attempt."

It was now four o'clock. If loose and rotten rock was dangerous on the ascent, it would be doubly so descending, and it was imperative to commence the descent. With the chagrin of defeat in our minds, we did not particularly relish the anticipation of descending faces of weathered and disintegrating rock, skirting fearsome ledges with foot-holds of questionable security and yawning depths below and, worst of all, lowering ourselves down couloirs treacherous with snow, ice and debris.

Proceeding carefully we reached the top of the last and longest couloir about seven o'clock. To its base the depth was fully 200 feet, and we dreaded this more than any part of the whole descent. The sun was approaching the mountain peaks to the west, the air had become noticeably cool, speed was necessary. Eight hundred feet below was the snow-field; unless we reached it before dark we might have the uncomfortable experience of spending a night above snow-line, an experience which none of us desired. Just as we had nicely entered the chimney the guide, Edouard, called a halt until he should examine another route apparently more feasible. It was; but the first thirty or forty feet seemed quite hazardous, so one member of the party was lowered by a rope to examine the rock carefully. It seemed better than the couloir and soon all had descended and we were approaching the snow-field, which we eventually reached about eight o'clock, feeling much relieved that the dangers were over before darkness set in. We arrived at the camp about nine o'clock, just as the evening