Page:Canadian Alpine Journal I, 2.djvu/14

198 the Reverends J. C. Herdman, J. R. Robertson and Geo. B. Kinney and P. D. McTavish in charge of the guide Edouard Feuz Jr. on July 9; and on August 22 Dr. Hickson of Montreal with both Peter and Edouard made the third unsuccessful attempt.

The Alpine Club's party left camp at six o'clock, and, after the usual tramp through the woods and over the 2,500 feet of loose rock and snow forming the mountain's lower slopes, we encountered the first real work. This consisted in the ascent of a long, steep couloir filled with much loose rock on which rested, most insecurely, from six to twelve inches of snow and ice. In spite of the greatest precaution we dislodged some boulders and a considerable amount of finer debris, snow and ice. As we approached the top of the chimney the snow increased in quantity and steepness, becoming almost perpendicular, so our ice-axes were called into use.

Regarding this particular part of the mountain Mr. Forde writes in his account of the climb: "About seven o'clock the first work began at an elevation of about 9,000 feet, up a small couloir, and, as the rocks were icy and covered with from six to twelve inches of snow, the rope was brought into use. Here one of the pleasures so often experienced by mountain climbers fell to the lot of the writer, that of hanging on to the face of the rock wall while the man above sent a steady stream of snow and lumps of ice on the top of his head and down his neck, while his fingers were getting numb and stiff and he was beginning to doubt the existence of such things as toes. Surely one is justified in asking at such times the question: Is life worth living? After about two hours of this work, during which the two climbers 'spelled' each other in cutting steps and finger-holds, about 125 feet had been gained, and they reached a small shoulder of the mountain, projecting into the Wastash Pass. Up this shoulder the travelling was comparatively good for 200 feet more, and then they were brought to a stop