Page:Canadian Alpine Journal I, 1.djvu/130

Rh touched the other and his body bridged the chasm; then a strong forward swing, and he stood safely beyond the gap. For me, aided by the rope, the matter was far less difficult, and soon we made our way over the intervening arete, gained the corniced summit, and Hungabee, the grim old "Chieftain," at last was conquered.

It was now 10.40 a.m., almost exactly seven hours since we left camp, and Christian warned us that we should not stay long, on account of the dangerous snow-slopes we must cross on our return. Hans wished me, however, to determine the altitude by means of the hypsometer, so I "boiled a thermometer," a proceeding which, on account of the high wind, consumed some time, so that it was nearly an hour later when we were finally ready to start downward. We reached the point where we had halted for breakfast, without difficulty, but from here down the hot sun beating on the snow was fast changing it to the consistency of slush, which threatened to avalanche at any moment. We crossed this safely, however, and arrived at the rocky shoulder just above the chimney. It seemed to me hardly more than three minutes after we had left the snow-slope before a portion of it, including almost our very footsteps, slid downward and disappeared over the cliffs below us.

The descent of the chimney was not an inviting proposition, for the condition had entirely changed since morning, and it was now spouting water. We did not hesitate long, but descended as rapidly as possible and soon emerged at the other end, somewhat wet but very happy, for now our difficulties were at an end. From here the way was comparatively easy, and camp was reached about six o'clock, after a most entertaining and glorious day.

The difficulties of any expedition, no matter how serious, always appear to diminish with the years