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340 BY ORDER OF THE CZAR.

They arrived at Conrn, a picturesque city at the head of the famous lake, where Walter had secured rooms at the best hotel in the square by the quay where you take the lake steamers or hire rowing boats. After an excel- lent dinner Walter and Swynford sat in the balcony, smoked their cigars, and watched the sunset. Dolly and Jenny unpacked their valises and talked over the day's adventures.

The next morning they were to go on to Bellaggio. Sam and Walter were up with the lark, interested in study- ing the picturesque and busy secularization of Sunday in Italy, which is strikingly illustrated in this little city of Como. Jugglers, hawkers, vendors of iced drinks, and holiday people were in the Square from the earliest hour on Sunday morning. Later, there were steamers arriving with bands of music and democratic societies out for the day. Members of rival and friendly associations met these political combinations on the quay, where they palavered and exchanged emphatic civilities. Their bands Swynford considered to be nearly as bad as those of the Salvation Army in England ; he hoped they had not traveled all that distance to make the acquaintance of such ribald music. Walter, discoursing with a bystander, discovered that the musicians were hired for such occa- sions as these by political administrators and the Odd Fellows and Foresters of Italy. The banners of these Orders were, however, more easily carried than those of our English confraternities. They did not indulge in those tremendous pictures which in England stretch right across the streets and are borne aloft in high winds with much sweat and struggle by even the strongest and doughtiest of Oddfellows and the most stalwart of Robin Hoods.

The square of Como was very busy all Sunday, and so were the streets ; busy with people who were shopkeeping,