Page:Burke, W.S. - Cycling in Bengal (1898).djvu/44

 a fairly big station with a population of over 25,000; it boasts good roads, public offices and buildings, and was once famous for its pottery. The industry, like all things Indian, has decayed, till now one hardly hears of its existence, though it is still carried on after the impracticable methods peculiar to the Aryan. It is said that a certain Asur or infidel lived here ages ago and had a thousand hands, in each of which was a separate plaything, hence the name Sasseram or Sashram, which means one thousand toys. There is to be found the tomb of Sher Shah, the Afghan fighting man, who conquered Humayoon Shah and afterwards became Emperor of Delhi. This interesting relic is on the west side of the town in the centre of a large tank. It is octagonal in shape, and is surrounded by an arcade and gallery; the roof rests on four arches somewhat Gothic in design, and the ornamentation is bestial. On a lofty hill to the east of the town is Chandan Shahib's mosque, a remarkable piece of architecture, which is worth a stiff climb to see.

After breakfast we head for Jehanabad and enter the Mirzapore district, a mile or two after leaving Sasseram behind. This is another of the "good old has been" sort of place. It was once a flourishing town, the Dutch occupied it, and did a big business in cloth, muslins, saltpetre, and other things, but Manchester killed it as regards cloth, while all its other enterprises have vanished. There is a small colony of semi-starved weavers, three brick buildings built by the Dutchmen a couple of hundred years ago, and a few crumbling ruins, to tell us of the good old days; but nothing more. There is an Inspection Bungalow here; but we do not suggest