Page:Brinkley - Japan - Volume 4.djvu/202

 Shōgun. The Yedo Court itself did not generally set a bad example. It never fell into the extravagance that disgraced Kyōtō during the days of the Fujiwara. It is true that there were many rules for regulating the colours and materials of men's raiment, the tying of their breast-knots, the shapes of their hats, the nature of their fans and shoes, the varieties of garb to be used at the different seasons, and the number of badges that might be dyed on outer garments. But these were points of etiquette rather than of elaboration, and the resulting costume, though eminently unsuited for active exercise, was picturesque and in no sense gaudy or gorgeous. In the case of the Court ladies no such rules were officially framed, but habit asserted itself with all the force of law. The Kyōtō fashion of multiple suits telescoping into each other found no favour. Even in winter a Yedo lady wore only six garments,—a strip of linen or silk around the waist and hanging a little below the knees; over that three gowns of white stuff; then a crepe garment, tied with a narrow girdle, and finally a mantle (uchikake), which hung free from the shoulders to the ground and was richly embroidered or curiously woven. Only on the first three days of the year did this fashion vary; the number of gowns increased to eight, supplemented by a pair of crimson silk trousers trailing far behind the feet. As to materials they varied with the season, but it was de rigueur that a complete change of clothes must be made thrice