Page:Brinkley - Japan - Volume 1.djvu/131

 Not less marked were the changes of costume. Instead of dressing the hair so as to form a loop hanging over each ear, men tied it in a queue on the top of the head. This novel fashion was due to the use of hats as insignia of official ranks. There were twelve varieties of hat corresponding to as many grades, and each was tied on with cord of a distinct colour, just as the colour of a cap-button now indicates official quality in China. Wigs had hitherto been largely used, but they were now abandoned except on occasions of special ceremonial, when they were fastened to the hat. The introduction of the queue seems to have been responsible for the first display of foppery on the part of men. It was ornamented with gold in the case of the highest officials, with tiger's hair by men of lesser rank, and with cock's feathers in a still lower grade.

The abolition of hereditary offices necessitated a thorough re-organisation of the administrative system, and it is a remarkable fact that the remodelled form remained permanent through all ages and still exists to a recognisable degree. For managing affairs in the provinces—where the great families had gradually become autocratic, not only levying imposts at will, but also appropriating to their own uses the taxes that should have gone to the Court—local governors and district headmen were appointed, and at the head of the central government was placed a department of shrines, immediately under it being