Page:Banking Under Difficulties- Or Life On The Goldfields Of Victoria, New South Wales And New Zealand (1888).pdf/186

Rh dry. By means of expensive appliances, most of those ships which were strong and well-formed, were raised on ways, and launched into the river when the tide was favourable. The squatters and farmers of Canterbury, being anxious for a market for their stock, pressed their Government for a road to be made to the West Coast, whither they could drive their fat cattle, and surplus sheep. This road stands as a feat of engineering skill (on many of the passes through the mountains the first surveyors and assistants had to be lowered and raised by ropes over perpendicular precipices), its cost exceeding a million sterling, since it was first undertaken. The road was finished, and owing to the clamour for self-government, Westland was declared a county, with all the officers and paraphernalia of a little Parliament. But self-government is a toy the people have almost got tired of playing with. The form has been altered several times, and yet I am not sure that it gives even a reasonable amount of satisfaction. Since the Vogel Government borrowed so liberally in the English market, many little pickings have come to Westland. Country roads, hitherto impassable, have been laid out and substantially constructed, and water races and harbour improvements have been made of a permanent character. Friendly benefit societies have been formed of the different orders that prevail in other colonies. These are in a thriving condition, and are well and liberally supported.

Two tramways started from the west end of the town, both now unused, since the public roads were practicable for drays and horse traffic. Before the tramways were in operation, long strings of pack-horses used to be the means of transporting supplies to the outlying districts. In the suburbs pretty drives and shady walks are to be found. The trees are interlaced with climbing plants of great variety, and the undergrowth of mosses and exquisite ferns of singular grace and beauty. A person who is sure-footed enough to walk on a single wooden rail of, say three inches wide (belonging to one of the saw-mills), could penetrate to places in the forest full of charming interest that would well repay a walk. A walk along the sea beach is also enjoyable, and sometimes creatures of rare forms are thrown up at high water out of reach of the returning tide. At one time a whale 56 ft. long and 12 ft. broad at the extension of the tail was found. A kangaroo-fish, about 18 in. long, with legs and webbed feet like a frog, was found near the embouchure of the Teremakau. Frost fish, “hiku,” of the Maories (Lepidopus Candatus) is esteemed the most delicious fish in New Zealand; these are sometimes found, but only on frosty mornings. It must be recollected the mails were carried along the beach to Greymouth when the tide was out, and the coach traversed the ground twice a-day. Although the area of the country is considerable, there is only available a very insignificant portion fit for reclamation for