Page:Autobiography of Rear Admiral Charles Wilkes.djvu/93

67 what are you doing there?" Looking up, I saw his full blown face I have already described with a cocked hat on square on his head, as red as the gills of turkey cock. The Ship made a narrow escape of grounding; but for the aid furnished him, he would have gone ashore. The young officers who were in our boats returned greatly excited at the coarse & unofficer like language used to them. The only satisfaction was that it was Billy the Bilger's way.

Nothing Material occurred in the Naval line except the Arrival of a British Gun brig of war. The idea became prevalent that she was always dogging our Squadron, and a feeling was evidently arising among our officers that it must be put a stop [to]. This was probably the first beginning of the difficulties which subsequently took place & which I shall hereafter write an account of.

We left Syracuse & the next day anchored in the Harbour of Messina to remain in Winter Quarters. The Harbour of Messina is nearly of an egg shape and about ½ or ¾ of a mile on its largest diameter. The water is very deep in the centre where the Men of War are anchored. The city is built up on the Western Side rising in the form of an amphitheatre towards the hills and built up close. The quays for the accommodation of the Shipping are well built, and the vessels are moored head on, side by side. These are good landing slips, and the Quay is a wide carriage road leading along the shore to the North and East which is the usual ride of those who have vehicle generally makes comparison with gilt and plated trappings. This is much frequented by the richer and higher classes. They do not much differ from the fiacre, and the mules driven by a postilion mounted on one of them. They are generally small and look not unlike rats before the vehicle. My friend Tallmadge, a Mid in the Squadron of powerful strength, amused me greatly by betting that he would stop one of those vehicles & seized hold of the frame and fairly brought the vehicle to a standstill to the astonishment of the Postilion and those within. It gave us no small amusement to witness. His family were all noted for their strength and belonged to Kinderhook on the North River.

The Port of Messina seemed as if formed by an extinct volcano. The tongue of land which forms the harbour sweeps around on the Straits side till it nears the Mainland on the East making the narrow entrance and rendering the Harbour nearly landlocked & very secure from all storms. This low Sandy ground has few homes upon it, but contains the Dock yard, rope walks and a fort or two of little account for its defense except for small vessels. Confined as the port is, it is a very busy place of business and apparently the great mart for the fruit trade. We found Several American Vessels loading with fruit for the United States.

In the way of amusement there is not much in Messina, a small theatre and opera house and the (Cosino?) Rooms. These are a beautiful set of apartments extending the whole length of the building and appropriated to the amusement of the upper classes. All the officers of the squadron received cards of invitation. The Balls are given