Page:Autobiography of Rear Admiral Charles Wilkes.djvu/82

56 Bay of Cronstadt, they have security from any attacking force for the Channel is extremely Narrow and would not permit of any large sized vessels of war to make an attack. In this the Arsenal of Cronstadt finds its safety. Vast sums of money have been spent in the Docks, Quays, and fortifications, and there is but few of them judiciously located. Our frigate was anchored about ½ mile from the Shore or Quay where the principle landing place is situated by a flight of granite steps. During our stay great preparations were going forward to place the fleet in winter quarters by dismantling the vessels & it was said that some American & English vessels obtained many useful articles for their ships by the purchase of rigging and stores from the officers of the several vessels.

Before we left, the 3rd Octr, ice was already forming in the harbor. The distance of Cronstadt from St Petersburg is about 20 miles, and this is reached on a small tug steamer which plies to and from the Capital. The Officers were afforded the opportunity of visiting the Capital. They were divided in two parties which gave us a week at the Capital, and was sufficient to enable us to see all the Sights of interest. Our Rendezvous was at the Hotel of Molly Moski, a large establishment and where we were well accommodated. One principal amusement was in driving about in droskys [droshkys], a peculiar vehicle with one stout draft horse and another, attached to the vehicle, of spirit and for show but of no service for the draft. It is a low vehicle with small wheels with a Seat somewhat like an extended trunk, rounded, covered with velvet or cloth, on which the persons sat astride, the driver on the front part. It is only capable of accommodating two persons besides the driver and is peculiar in appearance. It suited our party well; we had many of them engaged and formed a long line of vehicles running around the Magnificent streets.

St Petersburg is almost a flat and the country is an extensive plane, the Neva winding thru the city between its substantial quays of Granite. The width of the stream may be some 300 yards. It is crossed by several beautiful bridges of stone, and the city is laid off in radiating streets or avenues with a promenade of boulevards in the center raised some 3 feet above the street and planted with trees and having seats for the citizens. The pavements on each side extend to the houses; there is no sidewalk and on every block a Gateway or entrance through which vehicles pass to the entrances of the houses. The street front is one regular and uninterrupted row of windows looking like an extended palace and uniform in character. Although the effect is fine, but its sameness tires, and the effect produced on the stranger is melancholy. There is a want of life, the great "Rue Perspective" is a noble avenue, but it is devoid of life or bustle. We visited the Palace and were much struck with its beautiful Iron railing on a coping of stone 4 feet high; its light & beautiful form rises 18 feet with its pointed spears of gilt and the beautiful park within, but the openings which disclosed a view of the Palace reminded us more of a red brick jail than a royal residence. It is fully interesting to visit and was the residence of the great