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being at the head of tide-water navigation on the Chehalis River, where we are transferred to a small steamer to continue our journey. We had encountered a number of stations along the railroad, and now found a great frequency in towns along the river.

Montesano is the county-seat of Chehalis County, although it is only since 1886 that it has enjoyed that honor. Formerly Montesano and the county-seat were on the south side of the river two miles below the new town, at a place now called Wynooche, which has about two hundred inhabitants and is said to be a prosperous little settlement. But it is quite overshadowed by the more modern town, which boasts a population of over two thousand, good public and private schools, is lighted by electricity, has two saw-mills, several manufactories, a good country trade, well-stocked stores, and banks. Its county buildings are good ; it has an “ elaborate system” of water-works, and is about to construct an electric railway. At least so said my informant, and the town had a thrifty look which bore out the statement, besides supporting a daily and weekly newspaper.

A little way below Wynooche we passed Melbourne, a trading- post and post-office. I could not sufficiently admire the winding river and the overhanging shrubbery,—the vine maple, with its delicate spring tones, the glossy gray-white catkins of the willows, the dark-green of the crab-apple and alder, the silver boughs of the hemlock, and the varnished whorls of the spruce, beyond all of which was the dark background of cedar- and fir- trees. This wealth of arboreal beauty reminded me of the rich foliage of the Florida bayous, the comparison being strengthened by the narrowness of the stream and its frequent turnings, cutting off the views, so that we seemed at the end of our voyage, which unexpectedly recommenced a moment later.

But soon the river widened, and behold another town, very prettily situated, on the south side of the river, and looking bright and new, although in fact the oldest in the Gray’s Harbor country, having been settled in 1860. This is Cosmopolis. Like all the other places of consequence, it has a large saw-mill, which furnishes employment to a good many men. The town has all the modern features of a good hotel, good schools, public reading-room, and church organizations, besides a healthy trade