Page:Archaeological Journal, Volume 9.djvu/128

 86 ORIGINAL DOCUMENTS. his " Glossary,"- I conceive that my conjecture is well founded. lu the lano-ua"-e of the twelfth century the Turks were classed among Saracens.^ and tlic weavers of Paris, who wove the tapis de Turquio, were called tapissiers dc tapis Sarrasinois, as distinguished from the weavers of tapis nostre// (tapicium nostras ?) ; the one being a naturaHsed foreign, and the other a native, manufacture. The tapis Sarrasinois was for the use of the Church and of the higher classes, as Boileau's Livre des Metiers informs us. Perhaps we shall be justified in concluding that the burellers were weavers of broad cloth, and that the tapeners wove chalons of two classes ; the one being the tapisserie of double fabric, such as carpets, tapestry, coverlets and the " panni picti qui vocantur chaluns, loco lectisternii," forbidden as a luxury to the Sempringham canons (Capitula de Canonicis, Art. 7) ; — the other being single stufls, which, under the various names of shaloons, serges, ras de Chalons, &c., were in extensive use, and derived their generic name of panni Catalaunenses from one of the most noted seats of the manufacture, Chalons-sur-Marne. All the classes of weavers were doubtless included imder one original head of Telarii. We know too that manufacturers of linen, as well as woollen, cloth were comprehended under this title at Winchester; for the "seldse uhi line ipanei venduntur" are noticed in the "LiberWinton,"p. 544, and were probably near the Church of St. Mary de Linea Tela.^ In London it was once contended that Telarii in the old charters imported only woollen cloth weavers; but the court held that linen weavers were also comprised in the description. ^ It is remarkable, however, that, although there was a municipal tax on wool, neither flax nor hemp appear by name in the list of chargeable imports. The tariff of gate tolls specifies three sorts of articles for dyeing, — madder {warence) ; orchil or lichen, under the name of korc, by which name it is also mentioned in statutes 4 Edward IV. chap, i., 1 Richard III. chap. 8., and 24 Henry VIII. chap. 2 ; woad {loeide), together with the potash {cendre), used in scouring and dyeing. The sale of the woad was supervised by two lyriides hommes elected and sworn to assay it and to cause the assise or regulations of the trade to be observed by both seller and buyer. Similar ofiicers called " assayatores waidae" were annually elected at Exeter." I do not perceive weld used in the process ; but the old as well as the modern names of this plant are so little distinguishable from those given to woad, and the two so often confounded, that, perhaps, both may have been imported under the same name. 2 "Verb. Tapicium. s Arch. Joum., No. 28, Orig. Doc, ' Assises de Jerusalem, 'cap. 64 — p. 10. Ducange V. Turcomanus. « Madox Firma Burgi, pp. 197, 204 ■« See Boileau's Metiers de Paris, p. ]2G, — 206. Toile (tela) is in modern French 129, where the editor seems to be puzzled confined to linen. with the name tapis nostrez. That a ^ See Receivers' accounts, Exeter, Turkish carpet should be made at Paris temp. Edw. III., &c. The woad was will not be objected to by those who know imported from Toulouse, as appears by that Brussels carpets ai-e made at Kidder- the records of that city. See also statute minster. 4, Henry VII., ch. 10.