Page:All the Year Round - Series 2 - Volume 1.djvu/246

236[February 6, 1869] were infused into her veins. She pressed the paper to her lips, and murmured:

"Du lieber Himmel! 'For his sake,' whate'er betide, I will not flinch from it."

the benefits that inland towns derive from railways, not the least striking is the regular supply of fresh sea-fish from the coasts; and such cities as Vienna, Berlin, and Paris, may thank the Iron Horse for many a dainty dish. By means of diligences and mail-coaches Paris could draw but a limited supply of sea-fish even from the nearest ports on the Normandy coast; and it was only when the temperature was exceptionably favourable that any could be sent up to the capital from the Mediterranean and western shores. Yet, notwithstanding the difficulties arising from the state of the weather and the mode of transport, the Paris markets had for many years been regularly supplied with sea-fish from the northern coast by means of a system of cartage, comprising no less than three thousand two hundred and ninety-two carts, and organised by the fishing interest; and also to some extent from the vicinity of Havre and the Calvados coast. The diligences, at that time, also occasionally brought up fish from the Mediterranean ports; and during the year 1836, the total supply that reached the capital by these different modes of conveyance was three million three hundred and sixty-one thousand kilogrammes, or about three thousand three hundred and sixty tons. The quantity which now reaches Paris every year is about three times as large, yet prices instead of falling, as one would naturally suppose, have maintained themselves, owing probably to the immense increase of inland territory to be supplied by the fisheries, and to the latter having unfortunately failed to develop themselves in the same proportions as the consumption.

The arrival at the Paris Halles Centrales of the great caravan of railway trucks, bearing the produce of the nets and dredges of the whole littoral of France, is the signal for the commencement of a busy and curious scene. The bustle commences about six in the morning, when that portion of those gigantic glass and iron buildings which is devoted to the sale of fish, is invaded by a crowd of industrious blue blouses, with here and there a cocked hat, before which dreaded emblem of authority the skulking "voyous" and homeless wretches quickly abandon their hiding places, and disperse once more through the purlieus of the city, or remain hanging about the gates on the look out for a job. The waggons are quickly unloaded, and as the different lots are handed across the pavement expectation is rife, to see what prospect there may be of a good day's market; for, although the improved means of transport are of immense benefit to all concerned in this line of business, "first catch your hare" is still the rule, and the market is as dependent as ever upon the fishermen and the sea. The baskets, each of which bears the owner's name and the address of his salesman, are, immediately on delivery, deposited on their proper heaps by the porters, so that the salesman, by the aid of the way bills, which are handed in by the carman, can at once note the magnitude of the consignment for which he has become responsible. The sales are carried on by public auction; and the different lots are disposed of with the greatest celerity. To be first in the field is of course a great consideration, for only a limited quantity of goods can be offered for sale at a time; and fish, unlike most other articles, diminishes in value as the hour of the day advances. To avoid prejudice to the seller's interests, the dealers had long agreed to put up for sale, lots composed of parcels taken from every van in attendance. In this way one would have thought that the advantages or losses attendant upon late or early sale would be effectually equalised. But the commercial spirit is an ingenious thing. To obtain the full benefit of this arrangement some of the sellers, instead of allowing their fish to be forwarded from the station in the large railway trucks, brought it down to the market in several small carts, so that each vehicle might occupy a place in the rank, and furnish its quota to every sale as if it belonged to a separate owner. This little manœuvre was known as "le coupage," and to such an extent did the abuse spread that a police regulation was issued quite recently, decreeing that priority of arrival should be established as the title to priority of sale. In 1859, eleven thousand four hundred and seventy tons of fish were brought to the Halles in sixteen thousand and forty-two carts; in 1863, fourteen thousand four hundred and thirty tons occupied fifty-two thousand two hundred and eighty carts; and in 1866, thirteen thousand nine hundred and forty-three tons were brought on no less than seventy-eight thousand six hundred and four vehicles—under four hundredweight to each.

As soon as the fish is unpacked it is placed on large flat baskets, and is laid out in the various divisions, in the outskirts of the market, appropriated to the different salesmen. This work is done by the "verseurs," and requires a considerable amount of skill, for not only must the different species be grouped together, but the lots must be as nearly as possible of the same size, and the fish presented to the eye in its most favourable aspect, without, however, any attempt being made to conceal any flaw. The "verseurs" pass the fish to the criers, who are thirty-four in number, and whose duty it is to announce the goods as they are brought up for sale, to receive the bids, and to report the names of the purchasers to the auctioneer's clerk. Notwithstanding the uproar, the shouts, and the highly-spiced chaff which everywhere seems to be necessary to the proper disposal of fish, everything proceeds in the most perfect order, and the baskets appear and disappear with the greatest rapidity. Whenever any extraordinary specimen comes to hand, such as a gigantic salmon, or a