Page:Africa by Élisée Reclus, Volume 3.djvu/101

 TENERIFFE. 75 land and sea, but in full sight of the fiery stars which darted their golden rays against the black vault of night. Although far from being the loftiest peak on the globe, as was long supposed, the Peak of Teyde is none the less one of the grandest summits visible from the ocean. Amongst volcanoes it is unique for its height and isolation in the centre of the primitive crater above which it has risen, "a mountain built upon a mountain." It dominates by 5,680 feet the ruined cirque encircling it, and from its summits all other peaks in Teneriffe seem depressed. It is easy to understand the veneration with which it was regarded by the Guanches, whose most solemn oath was that taken in its name. When the explorer reaches the plateau whence the supreme cone rises 1,650 feet higher than Vesuvius, he perceives that what from below looked like forests was really formed by streaks of pumice, lines of red scoria3, bands of black lavas, indicating a long series of eruptions continued through successive geological ages. To the south stands the vast Pico Yiejo crater, 10,500 feet high, still filled with semi-fluid scoriae, like a huge caldron about to overflow. Although the great eruptions of Teyde are very rare, occurring not more than once in a century* symptoms of smouldering fires are constantly perceptible. The walls of the highest crater are covered with a snow-white efflorescence, whence are emitted jets of steam at a temperature of about 186° F. mixed with sulphurous gases and carbonic acid, but in such slight quantities that dense vapours are seldom seen to rise above the summit. Nevertheless, the temperature is sufficiently high to support animal life even at this great elevation, and on arriving at the summit the explorer is surprised to find the crater swarming with insects, such as flies and bees, and even swallows and a species of finch peculiar to the peak. But the gases are seldom sufficiently abundant to melt the snows which whiten the cone in winter. A grotto known as the Cueva del Yelo ( " Ice Cave " ) is every year filled with snow and ice, yielding a constant supply to the inhabitants of Orotava. Topography. Sanfa-Cruz, capital of Teneriffe, the Ar/aza of the Guanches, rivals Las Palmas in trade and population. It lies on the north-east coast, where its little harbour is sheltered from the south winds by a breakwater which advances a few yards every year. On the plateau west of Santa-Cruz stands Lnguna, the " Lake " town, which, however, has lost its 'lake since the rainfall has diminished through the reckless destruction of the surrounding forests. Laguna itself is in a state of decay ; but the neighbouring villages of Anaga, and especially Tagnnana, occupy- ing the most fertile and best-cultivated district in the island, enjoy a large measure of prosperity. West of Laguna the main highway of the island, running in the direction of Orotava, is flanked by several flourishing towns surrounded by orchards and gardens. Such are Tacoronte, which possesses a museum of Guanche mummies, with arms and implements ; Sauzal, where some lava quarries are worked, similar