Page:Africa by Élisée Reclus, Volume 2.djvu/209

 TUNIS. 171 Towards the upper end of the town, below the kasbah and the Dar-el-Bcy, or " Bey's Palace," are the labyrinthine raniiHcationB of the " Suks," each wtreet of which, vaulted or surmounts! by woodwork, is inhabited by people of the same trade, such as saddlers, linen-drapers, copjKjrsmiths, jewellers, and perfumers. In many an alloy the workshop adjoins the booth where the wares are exjK)8e<l for sale; the linen is woven, the wool carded, the sheshius dyed, the cojiiK-r hammered, in full view of the purchasers and passers-by. Here and there is seen a flight of stairs, and through a half-open door a glimpse can be had of an almost deserted court, encircled by arcades — a religious school it may be, or a mosque, or some other tranquil retreat in the midst of the surrounding turmoil. Few animals except some asses are to be seen in the quarter of the bazaars ; but in the suburbs the streets leading to the gates of the town are blocked with horses, mules, and camels, through which the carriages, jolting over the stones and ruts, make their way with difficulty. The types of different nationalities predominate according to their respective quarters. In the upper town live the Tunisians, properly so called, with whom are intermingled, in the suburb of Bab-es-Suika, the descendants of the Andulusian Moors. Proud of their ancient reputation as the leaders of fashion in Mauritania, the elegant Tunisians excel in the choice of the stuffs of which are made their garments, in which bright hues always predominate. The haik, light blue, delicate pink, peach, or cream-coloured, flows in graceful folds over the shoulders. But the women, amongst whom stoutness is greatly admired, contrast unfavourably with the men as regards the style of their costumes. In spite of the beauty of the striped silks, it is difficult to suppress a feeling of disgust at the sight of those ungainly figures swaying heavily in their broad and short blouses, showing the narrow drawers and the loose stockings. The black veil, with nothing but a slit for the eyes, gives them at a distance the appearance of negresses, who, however, have at least the redeeming features of a glossy skin and white teeth. Side by side of the richly dressed Moors are the more numerous poor Mussul- mans, clothed with their simple burnous of grey wool or with coarse brown caped cloaks embroidered in white. It is only by long observation that amongst all these types the stranger is able to identify the Jarabas, or merchants from the island of Jerba, the Sulfas or immigrants from Suf, the Mzabites, the northern Algerians, and the natives of Marocco, who have become very numerous since the arrival of the French. The Jews, who are grouped together more especially in the eastern part of the Bab-es-Suika quarter, are divided into two classes, according to their origin. The Italian Jews, or " Grana," that is to say, the people of Guma, or IjCghom, wear the European costume, whilst the others are dressed very similarly to the Moors ; their women, however, who are as stout as the Moorish ladies, go imveiled, and wear a gold -embroidered peaked bonnet. The Maltose, who have given their name to one of the busiest streets of the city, form, both by their language and customs, the link between the Arabs and Sicilians, who represent a large portion of the local Italian proletariat. The Tuscans are now represented only by the Jews,