Page:Africa by Élisée Reclus, Volume 1.djvu/503

 OAIBO. 409 exposed except the eyes peeping through a slit in the veil attached to the head- dress by a gold clasp. The country women, dressed in a simple flowing robe, moWng freely with the movements of the body, go nearly all unveiled, like their Syriun, Levantine, Jewish, and European sisters, all of whom may bo easily recog- nised by their type, thfir carriage, dress, style, and manner, as they move amongst the busy crowd, or stop to examine the tempting display of goods in the well- 6tocke<l shops. The graceful Nubians in their long white smocks, Bedouins proudly draped in rags and tatters, Negrtx^s of every tribe, each with the distinctive marks of his nationality stamjxHl on his features, intermingle freely with the native Egyptians, distinguished by their official garb and tarbush headdress, with Eurojieans of every nation still more or less faithful to the costume of Western civilisation ; with soldiers of all arms in helmets, turbans, or other oriental or ancient headdress. Followed by their little donkey-boys shouting and gesticulating, the magnificent Egyptian asses trot nimbly by, however tall or heavy be their riders. But military chiefs and wealthy strangers prefer the graceful Arab steed, or elegant European equijMiges, which drive rapidly through the crowd preceded by a sais, or running footman, dressed in the gorgeous Albanian costume bedizened with gold and silk, and armed with the traditional rod, which was formerly freely used to clear the road of loiterers. At times, overtopping the throng, like some magnificent " wise man of the East " out of a painting by Rubens, some Xcgro captain makes his appearance, clothed in white and red silk, glittering with damascened arms find mounted on a gigantic camel, with its embroidered cloths and velvet housing fringed in gold. At present instances of foreigners being insulted by fanatical Mohammedans are almost unheard of, except when they behave in an offensivo manner. They may now move about freely even in the neighbourhood o^ the El-Azhar mosque, where reside the more zealous champions of Islam. The gay wedding processions and solemn funerals may be followed without any risk through the narrowest byways of the native quarter. The great religious ceremonies, at which Christians could not formerly be present except protected by the police and soldiers, have been shorn of much of their ancient splendour, and certain parts of the original programme are henceforth interdicte<l. The chief local feast is that of the " Cutting," by which the beneficent waters of the rising stream are admitte<l to the town canals. But the esst^ntially religious solemnities are those associated with the departure and arrival of the pilgrims from Mecca. At the feast of Mnhmal, or the Departure, by the Europeans called the " Carpet Feast," a camel decked with embroidered tnippings, plumes, and burnished metal ornaments, bears a sumptuous litter containing the yearly present sent by the Khedive to the Eaaba of Alecca. It is preceded by musicians and troops, and followed by a motley throng of pilgrims of every race and colour. On the return of the sacre<l caravan the anniversary is celebrated of the birthday of the Prophet, during which the city is given up to the dervishes, dancers, and jugglers. No more favourable opportunity is afforded for studying the varied elements of the {wpula- tion of Cairo. All the back slums and remote recesses of the native district« now