Page:Africa by Élisée Reclus, Volume 1.djvu/460

 874 NOETH-EAST AFRICA. Egyptians, the holy island, whither was transferred the tomb of Osiris from Abydos. Of all solemn oaths the most solemn was that sworn by the " Osiris who dwells at PhilsB." It is a small island, less than half a mile in circumference ; but its out- lines describe a charming oval, and there is no more graceful monument in all the land than the kiosk on the east bank, whose festooned columns and floral capitals rival the elegant forms of the shapely palm-stems overshadowing them. This Egyptian edifice, dating from the time of Tiberius, is one of those that have been most frequently reproduced by the pictorial art. It bears neither reliefs nor inscriptions ; but it recalls the outlines of the Erechtheon at Athens, and it occupies a lovely site. The other monuments on the island, temples of Isis reconstructed after the conquest of Egypt by Alexander, are more remarkable for their inscriptions than for their architecture. Perfectly preserved paintings are still visible on their columns. Philae has become famous in the history of archaoological studies through its two bilingual inscriptions, one of which, a copy of the celebrated " Rosetta Stone," commemorates in hieroglyphic and demotic characters the triumph and greatness of Ptolemy V., named the ** Immortal." At Phila) also was found the obelisk on which Champollion, after having already discovered the secret of the sacred writings, deciphered the name of Cleopatra. This precious monument, carried off by Banks and Belzoni, now forms part of a private collection in England.* Another inscription at Philae, dated the eighteenth ventose of the year seven, records the passage of the first division of the French army under the command of Desaix in pursuit of the Mameluks, beyond the Cataracts. At one time a tunnel passed under the narrow channel separating the island of Philae from that of Biggeh, which was formerly also a holy land. AssuAN — Abu. The valley through which flowed the Nile waters when they stood at a higher level than at present, now forms the main route of caravans skirting the Cataracts and transporting merchandise overland between Mahatta and Assuan. Here the Khedive Ismail constructed a railway nine miles long, for military purposes, and this line was extended by the English far into Nubia during the campaigns of 1884 and 1885. The importance attached for at least the last forty-seven centuries to this commercial highway is evident from the inscriptions in various languages engraved on its rocky walls. Its strategic value was also fully recognised, as appears from the remains of a rampart constructed to defend Si/ene from the attacks of the Blemmyes. The town lies below the Cataracts, on the right bank of the river, where its houses are disposed in amphithcatral form on the slopes of the rocks. The creek of Assuan is crowded with river craft, although less numerous than at Mahatta, and the Shellali, or "Men of the Cataract," swarm on^the beach every time a dahabiyeh weighs anchor in the direction of the rapids. The bazaar is well stocked with arms and ornaments, ostrich feathers, skins of wild beasts, ivory,
 * Amelia Edwarda, " A Thousand MiUa up the Nile."