Page:Africa by Élisée Reclus, Volume 1.djvu/218

 extent; the dwellings of the better classes are surrounded by large gardens; the streets form shady avenues, whence are perceived the conic roofs of the houses amidst the dense foliage of cedars, sycamores, and fruit trees. Koarata, "the pleasantest town in Abyssinia," was till recently the most populous. At the time of D'Abbadie's visit it numbered some 12,000 inhabitants, which in 1864 were reduced to 2,000 according to Raffray, and from 800 to 1,000 according to Stecker, whilst in 1881 all the Mussulmans were forcibly exiled. Nevertheless it is still the centre of a brisk trade, and the numerous faukuas hauled up on the beach attest a considerable movement between Koarata and the towns dotted round

the lake. Koarata owes its importance as a commercial depôt to a venerable church, which was formerly a place of sanctuary respected even by the sovereign. On the roads leading towards the sacred hill, large trees designate the boundaries of safety, into which the bishop and the emperor are the only persons who dare venture on horseback. In the vicinity of Koarata are the red sandstone quarries which supply the stone used for the palaces and churches of Gondar. The coffee of this town is exquisite, far superior to that of the hilly Zigheh peninsula, which is visible on the other side of the lake about 6 miles to the south-west, and which is one vast plantation. The town of Zigheh was destroyed by Theodore.