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Rh trifles, which are, nevertheless, of high value, for they have been brought from the holy city of Lhassa. The two sides of the nave, if it may be so called, are used as a warehouse.

Before we left, the lama who acted as our guide showed us a tambourine which was used as an organ for accompanying the prayers; and striking the cymbals which are used for the same purpose, he, with raised forefinger and open mouth, bade us admire their sonorous properties. Their vibrations are, as a matter of fact, very harmonious. Before parting with him we gave him a handsome "tip," and the poor fellow did not attempt to disguise his satisfaction, for these simple people do not know what wealth is, and we were struck by the wretched state in which the Mongols encamped around the pagoda live. The interior of their tents is the acme of filth, and the smells emanating from them are horrible. Nearly all the children are naked, the parents not having the wherewithal to clothe them. As to the women, they exceed in ugliness anything which can be imagined; and one cannot help wondering how the most ardent of poets would contrive to idealise them.

In the evening we penetrate by a small pass into the valley of the Kunges, and encamp not far from a copper-mine, where we discover a tiny spring, which supplies us with sufficient water for our tea. And that is about all, for we are on an arid steppe.

September 18.—To-day we encamp among the rushes on the banks of the Kunges, at a place named Timurlik. We cross the Kunges about six miles farther on, for we have to make to the south-east towards the valley of Tsakma, and the pass which leads there is higher up the stream. We are now on the route followed by Prjevalsky, and so far the crossing of the chain of the Tien Shan, which barred our route, has presented no great difficulties. The excursion, indeed, was a delightful one, and the temperature agreeable, though at one in the afternoon it was 100° Fahrenheit in the shade. The minimum at night was 16°,