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Rh ejected and comparative quiet descended upon the inn once more.

From Pupiao we crossed a mountain-range and then descended into the valley of the Salwin. Terraces of paddy-fields covered the lower slopes of the valley, which is wider than that of the Mekong; vegetation assumed a semi-tropical character, and the atmosphere became heavy and oppressive. There are probably good grounds for the bad name which the valley has among the natives for its unhealthy climate. The country in the vicinity was described by Marco Polo as being "full of great woods and mountains which 'tis impossible to pass, the air in summer is so impure and bad; and any foreigners attempting it would die for certain." This must be read in the light of his explanatory remarks in the prologue of his historic work,—"and we shall set down things seen as seen, and things heard as heard only, so that no jot of falsehood may mar the truth of our Book, and that all who shall read it or hear it read may put full faith in the truth of all its contents." The atmosphere is, no doubt, vitiated with