Page:A complete course in dressmaking (Vol. 12, Men's clothes & index) (IA completecoursein00cono).pdf/98

 Quality of Yarns: Yarns vary in quality according to the length, diameter, elasticity, and strength of the fibers, and the twist and ply of the yarn.

Wool yarns are of two kinds—worsted and woolen. A worsted yarn is usually made of longer fibers than woolen yarn and is therefore stronger. It is also combed, which causes the fibers to lie parallel in the yarn; while woolen yarns are carded, causing the fibers to lie crisscross. Cloths made of worsted yarns will wear better than those made of woolen yarn. They are, however, likely to wear shiny. Shoddy is wool which has been recovered from old garments and reworked or made over into new material. In the process it loses a good deal of its original elasticity and many of the fibers are crushed and broken. If the original wool was a very good grade, the shoddy may still make a better material and give better service than a poor grade of virgin wool. A poor shoddy because of its short torn fibers has a dead feel, has very little strength, and will tear easily.

The strongest silk yarns are made of groups of long continuous filaments which lie parallel and are well twisted. A yarn of carded spun silk or short filaments may be woven to give good service but is not as strong.