Page:A complete course in dressmaking (Vol. 12, Men's clothes & index) (IA completecoursein00cono).pdf/97

 wool fabric remains creased, it is probably due to the use of shoddy or reworked wool which has lost most of its elasticity in chemical treatments or remanufacture, or to a poor grade of virgin wool. If a silk fabric remains creased it is probably heavily weighted to make it appear of good quality. Cotton and linen crease rather easily, linen much more readily than cotton.

(3) Thumb Nail Test: Rub the edge of the thumbnail diagonally across the cloth. If the threads are loose they will move out of position following the direction of the moving nail.

(4) Sewing Test: Run a pin or needle back and forth through two thicknesses of the cloth as if sewing them together. Then with the needle still holding the cloth, pull the two pieces in opposite directions. If the threads separate much and do not return to their original position, the material would not stand much strain and would pull out at the seams.

(5) Light Test: Hold the sample to the light and observe the closeness of the threads. In a firm well woven cloth the threads should be even, straight, lie parallel, and be close together.