Page:A complete course in dressmaking (Vol. 12, Men's clothes & index) (IA completecoursein00cono).pdf/96

 means that if a fabric is woven of yarn in which linen and cotton are carded together none of the above tests or any chemical test will reveal its exact nature. A cloth appearing to be all cotton may contain a very small percentage of linen or a cloth appearing to be all linen may contain a small percentage of cotton. (Because of this fact the microscope is really the only means of determining correctly the true nature of linen and cotton fabrics.)

Judging the Quality of Fabrics: An examination of fabrics reveals some very important facts as to their general character and quality.

Firmness of Weave: A cloth to be durable and to hold its shape should be firmly woven. Its firmness may be determined by the following simple tests:

(1) Pulling Test: Puil the sample in all directions. The yarns should have about the same elasticity and remain in their original positions. The cloth should retain its original form.

(2) Creasing Test: Crease a sample of cloth between the thumb and fingers. A good piece of wool or silk will spring back into shape, due to their natural elasticity. If a