Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 9, Infants' Clothes) (IA completecoursein09cono).pdf/26

 Slip a piece of paper under the diagram of the back and trace around the outer edge of the pattern allowing a hem at the bottom and seams at the neck, shoulder, armhole and side.

The next step is to test the slope of the armhole, so study the diagrams in Figs. 13, 14, IS. Thumb tack the two cut out pieces of the pattern to the table with the shoulder edges meeting and see if the armhole is a true curve without jog or point in it. The curve should be continuous to fit well. Fig. 13 shows an armhole which has an excellent true curve. It would look as Fig. 16 in the garment. Fig. 14 shows an armhole which points out at the shoulder. This should be trued up by rounding off the point as indicated by the dotted lines. Fig. 15 shows an armhole which scoops in at the shoulder. This shoulder should be filled in to make a true curve as indicated by the dotted line. Examine the results of a badly curved armhole in Figs. 18 and 17. Where the pattern shows an armhole too pointed at the shoulder, as in Fig. 17, no sleeve would set nicely when sewn in. Fig. 18 shows a scooped shoulder where the sleeve would hitch up the arm if it were sewn into this armhole. Fig. 16 shows a dress where the curve is correct, which means a comfortable, well-fitting sleeve.

Another test of the pattern is to thumb tack