Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 7, Coats) (IA completecoursein07cono).pdf/81

 HOW TO MAKE COATS press it open. Then join lower portion of sleeve to armhole, and shoulder sections to front and back of coat. Double stitch shoul¬ der seams, turning raw edges up, but make a plain seam around the lower armhole, turning the raw edges into the coat and press¬ ing them in place. Tape around the neck of the coat. Reinforce the under collar with canvas, stitch it to the neck and join the top collar to coat as described in making Norfolk jacket. Stay bottom of coat with strip of canvas as described in semi-fitted coat. Use the coat pattern as a guide in cutting lining, allowing for a pleat at the back. Baste the pleat in place and cat stitch it at top. Close the underarm seams in the lining and press them open. Pin the lining to the coat, turning it under at the front, neck and lower edges, and felling it to the coat. Catch the lining to the seams at the joining of the shoul¬ der and lower sections, also at the armhole and underarm seams. Close the upper and under seams in the sleeve lining, and press them open. Turn the sleeve wrong side out, slip the lining over the sleeve, matching the seams, turn under the lower edge and fell it over the raw edges at the bottom of the sleeve. Tack the lining to the sleeve at the

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