Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 7, Coats) (IA completecoursein07cono).pdf/73

 HOW TO MAKE COATS bottom. Cut off the edge of the interlining that projects in the seam and turn the collar right side out. Press the collar and then gather it across the back of the neck. Join collar to neck. Roll the raw edges onto the wrong side and catch them down. Close the shoulder seams in the yoke lin¬ ing and press them open. Pin the lining in place, turn under the edges and fell over the raw edges at the neck, front and bottom. Tack the lining to the shoulder seams. Sew buttons to the left front to match the loops, Raglan Top Coat: Tweeds and other heavy worsteds are often made with raglan sleeves, as shown in Fig. 80. It’s a style that is especially good for knock about wear and sports. Such a coat is best made without trimming. The pockets may be in patch or slash style. The collar is usually in plain notch style or convertible. Usually the belt is a narrow leather one. Use bone or leather buttons. The one point of difference between a regu¬ lation top coat and a raglan top coat is the sleeve. In the raglan coat the seams are double stitched as shown in Fig. 81. The sleeve linings are joined to the side ^ sections of the lining before the lining is put in. [691