Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 7, Coats) (IA completecoursein07cono).pdf/61

 HOW TO MAKE COATS neck. Stitch both edges of collar to coat. Roll the raw edges of the seams onto the wrong side of the coat and catch them to the canvas. Turn up the lower edge of coat and tack to canvas stay at bottom. Fold in the front edge of the turned-up portion and fell it over the raw edge of the revers. In cutting lining allow pleat at center-back. Baste the pleat in place and close the under¬ arm seams. Pin the lining to the coat, smooth¬ ing out all wrinkles. Tack to the coat along the underarm seams. Baste it around the armhole. At the shoulder smooth the back lining over the seam and tack it to the seam. Turn under the lining at the neck and fell it in place. Also turn under the front and lower edges and fell them down. Last of all turn under the free edge at the shoulder and fell it. A flowing sleeve as illustrated on the Eton jacket is cut usually in just one piece and is very simple to make. After closing the sleeve seam and the seam in the sleeve lining and pressing them open, stay the bottom of the sleeve with a bias strip of canvas placed a seam’s width in from the lower edge. Catch canvas to sleeve and tack seam back on it. Line sleeve and sew sleeve to coat as de[57]