Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 7, Coats) (IA completecoursein07cono).pdf/56

 A COMPLETE COURSE IN DRESSMAKING but without seams. In joining the canvas to the under collar cover the crescent-shaped portion which comes next to the neck with machine stitching. Work padding stitches across the rest of the canvas, catching it to the under collar but using care that the stitches do not show through the material. Join the collar to the coat. Then stitch outside collar to under collar across outer edge and notch. Across the revers turn under edge of collar and blind-stitch to facing. Baste lower edge of collar to coat. Stay lower edge of coat with canvas as described in making semi-fitted coat. Make the belt next, cutting the lining a little smaller than the outside belt. Try on the coat to determine the proper placing of the belt. Mark where the belt will go on the pleats. Remove the coat and mark the under folds of each pleat at the point where the belt will go. The material is slashed at these points, but before slashing the goods, lay a facing piece on the right side of the coat over the mark. Stitch either side of the mark, running the stitching to a point at either end. (See Fig. 63.) Slash the material between the stitching and turn the facing through the slash onto the wrong side. Stitch around the