Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 7, Coats) (IA completecoursein07cono).pdf/51

 HOW TO MAKE COATS In cutting the lining use the coat pattern, making the front lining just wide enough to lap over the cloth facing. Allow pleats at the center-back of both the body and peplum sections. Join the peplum lining to the coat first. Lay in the pleat at the center-back and pin it in place at the center-back. Baste it at the waistline, allowing the raw edges to extend straight up in the coat. At the front and lower edge turn under the lining and fell it in place. Close the underarm seam of the lining, lay the pleat in the back and adjust it to the coat as described in putting in lining of semi-fitted coat. Join sleeve seams and seams of sleeve lin¬ ing, pressing them open. Since this sleeve has a cuff there is no turn up allowed at the bottom but the lower edge has the stay of canvas the same as the sleeve in the semifitted coat, except that the canvas is placed along the raw edge at the bottom. The cuff has the extension at the bottom which fin¬ ishes the lower edge of the sleeve. Cut a canvas interlining for the cuff, without the extension at the bottom and without seams at top. The cuff lining is also cut without the extension at the bottom. Join the cuff lining to the top of the cuff: stitch ends of the cuff

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