Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 7, Coats) (IA completecoursein07cono).pdf/49

 HOW TO MAKE COATS bottom. Make open seams at the shoulder and underarm, stitch the peplum to bottom with a plain seam, turn the raw edges onto the body portion of the coat and stitch around the waistline again. This time run the stitching about one-eighth of an inch above the joining. Now you are ready to apply the canvas interlining.. Pin it in place, then baste it as described in making semi-fitted coat, only in this case the canvas is caught to the coat across the revers with padding stitches. See making collar in semi-fitted coat. Start the padding stitches at the roll line or in other words the point where the revers roll back. Work the first row along the roll line and fill in solid from there to the outer edge of the revers, working each row parallel to the first and shaping the revers as they will lie on the coat. Tape the coat across the roll line of the revers and down the front; also tape across the back of the neck. Across the back there is a separate section for the under collar. This needs canvas. Use the collar pattern as a guide in cutting the canvas, but of course cutting it without the seam allowance. Pin the canvas to the collar, cover the crescent-shaped portion of the collar that comes at the back of the neck [45]