Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 7, Coats) (IA completecoursein07cono).pdf/47

 HOW TO MAKE COATS

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The pattern for the peplum coat placed on the goods

folded double lengthwise. Of course, this is just a sample layout. Place your pattern according to the width of your goods. Re¬ member that most coatings have an up and down. That means you must keep all the pieces with the top in one direction. Making a Peplum Coat: If you are plan¬ ning a regulation shawl collar for the coat, cut it in one with the front facings. The facing extends across the collar, over to the shoulder and down the front of the coat to the bottom. Use the coat pattern as a guide in cutting the canvas, lapping the peplum over the front of the coat three-quarters of an inch where they join at waistline. In this case, too, the seam allowance is cut off at the front, neck and lower edge. Also use front collar and peplum patterns for cutting cloth facing. (Fig. 55.) In making the coat, close the dart in the front first. One ought to be very careful in stitching a dart in the front of a coat to taper [43]