Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 7, Coats) (IA completecoursein07cono).pdf/34

 A COMPLETE COURSE IN DRESSMAKING wrinkles will appear diagonally from the bust¬ line to the waistline, and it will stand away from the back of the neck. In this case, rip the underarm seam of the muslin test, try it on and let the front and the back hang down as they will. Pin a piece of material at the underarm seam sufficiently broad to cover the gap between the front and the back. (See Fig. 41.) This throws extra fullness in the front, which can be fitted out in the side-front seam. If the person is inclined to stoop, just the opposite happens. The garment swings to the back and wrinkles appear from just below the shoulder blades to the waistline, slanting toward the underarm seams. Also the coat is apt to bind at the back of the neck. Here, too, rip the muslin at the underarm seams, try it on and let the pieces fall naturally, pin a piece of muslin in the underarm seams and fit the side-back seams. If the woman for whom the coat is intended is broad across the chest in proportion to her back, or the reverse broad across the back and flat chested, buy two sizes of the pattern, using one for the front and one for the back. If the garment is short waisted this can be corrected by taking up each seam a trifle. [30]