Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 6, Dresses) (IA completecoursein06cono).pdf/94

 for a surplice style. Taffeta silk, a medium or heavy crepe silk, charmeuse satin, chiffon velvet, broadcloth, velour, fine serge, wool voile, cotton voile, dotted swiss, organdie, gingham, chambray or any such texture will make up successfully in such a style.

Making a Surplice Dress: Close your shoulder seams first, using the seam that is best suited to the texture of the material. Then, sew on the collar. Baste along the front edge to prevent stretching.

Next, sew the cuff to the sleeve, and the sleeve to the armhole. Then, close the sleeve and underarm seams; leaving the right seam open, two and a half inches above the waist line. The sash end of the left side passes through this opening when the dress is on. (See Fig. 94.)

Join the sash ends to the ends of the front and finish the surplice edges of the waist, the sash ends and the bottom of the waist. Binding makes a neat finish for these edges.

Join the top of the skirt to a grosgrain belt that fastens at left side, just in front of the side panel. Tack the back of the waist over this belt.

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